Woodpecker birdhouse plan – Houses for woodpeckers must be made with deep cavities like the hollowed tree-trunks in which they nest. The dimensions will vary for different members of the woodpecker family. Little downy woodpecker requires a cavity 4 inches square at the bottom, extending about 8 inches below the doorway.
The doorway must be 1 1/4 inches in diameter. The hairy woodpecker’s house should have a cavity extending 12 to 15 inches below the doorway, measuring 6 inches square at the bottom, and a doorway 1 1/2 inches in diameter. The red-headed woodpecker requires the same size cavity as the hairy woodpecker, but an entrance 2 inches in diameter.
The flicker’s house should have a cavity extending between 16 and 18 inches below the doorway, and a doorway 2 1/2 inches in diameter. You will find all of the necessary dimensions given in the “List of Dimensions” of Fig. 668, Chapter 35.
The houses in the photographs of Figs. 684 and 685 are designed for flickers. You can reduce the dimensions given, to suit other species of woodpeckers.
Woodpecker birdhouse plan No. 1
Figure 687 shows a detail of the framework of Woodpecker House No. 1 (Fig. 684). First prepare top and bottom pieces A by the pattern in Fig. 688. It will simplify matters to nail two pieces of 7/8-inch board together, mark out the outline upon one board, and cut out the two pieces at one time. A hand bracket-saw or coping saw can be used for sawing out the curved ends and notching them. Make connecting strips B square, of the dimensions given in Fig. 688. Fasten them in the notches in the top and bottom pieces A, as shown.
The curved front of the house is enclosed with tin. The sides of rive tomato cans, with edges, lapped 1/2 inch, will do. Tack the tin to strips B with carpet tacks.
Prepare side pieces C (Fig. 687) after the front has been inclosed. In one piece cut the doorway in the position shown in Fig. 688. Cut roof board D (Fig. 687) by the pattern in Fig. 688, and nail it to top piece A with equal projections at the sides, and a rear projection to cover backboard E.
Prepare backboard E by the pattern in Fig. 688, and hinge it to the rear edge of roof piece D with a pair of hinges. Figures 689 and 690 show details of the perches.
![Fig. 688. — Detail of Parts for the Woodpecker House No. 1, Shown in Fig. 684Fig. 691. — Cross-Section of Woodpecker ] House No. 2, Shown in Fig. 685](https://i0.wp.com/diy.smartkids123.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/688-691-Woodpecker-birdhouse-plans-675x1024.png?resize=675%2C1024&ssl=1)
Sticks F and I are 3/8-inch dowel-sticks. Cut blocks G and H of the dimensions given in Fig. 690. Bore a hole in bottom piece A to receive stick F, and nail through G into A.
Woodpecker birdhouse plan No. 2
Woodpecker House No. 2 (Fig. 685) is shown in cross-section in Fig. 691, with all parts lettered in a manner corresponding to that used on the patterns in Fig. 692. Front and back boards A may be made of 3/8-inch stuff, sides B, roof boards C, floor D, and blocks F and G, should be cut out of 5/8-inch stuff.
Cut the main parts before starting to assemble. First, nail the four sides together, then add the roof. Roof boards C must be mitered, or one piece must be lapped over the other, at the ridge. Cover the joint with a strip of tin. Fasten floor D between the sides with screws, so it may be removed at house-cleaning time.
There are six brackets F to support boards E (Fig. 691). The positions for them are shown in Fig. 685 and a pattern is shown in Fig. 693.
The knob on the under side of the base, made up of spools H and the block G (Figs. 694 and 695,) is held by nail I driven through the center into base D (Fig. 691). Miter shelf boards E at the corners. Add screw-eyes for hangers, then the house will be ready for finishing with stain or paint.
