Martin birdhouse plans – Part 2
Cut the Gable-Ends M and partition N (Figs. 703 and 704) out of 12-inch boards, making the angle at the peak 90 degrees. Bore three 2 1/2-inch doorways through ends M, in the positions shown. Nail floor boards L to the bottoms of gable-ends M and partition N, then cut partitions 0 (Fig. 704) 4 inches wide, to fit between ends M and partition N, and fasten floor P on top.
Cut the Roof Boards long enough to project 6 inches over the gable-ends and side walls, fasten them together in two sections with battens, and fasten them to the tops of the gable-ends.
Cut two triangular pieces like 5 (Fig. 705), and nail one to the center of each end of floor L. Prepare a pair of Brackets of the shape of U (Fig. 706) to fit under each of the pieces 5, and sixteen of the same size to fit under the third-story ledge, four on each side of the house. Cut sixteen brackets of the shape of bracket T (Fig. 705), and fasten these below the second-story ledge, four on each side of the house.
Cut The Chimney blocks Q and R of the shape shown in Fig. 707, nail them together, and fasten to the center of the peak of the roof.
The Bird-House Support is built up as shown in Figs. 708 to 710. Center post V is a 2-by-6, pieces W are 2-by-2s (Fig. 709), brackets X are cut out of a 2-by-6 (Fig. 710), and the shoulder blocks Y and Z are cut out of a piece of 2-by-4. You will see by Fig. 709 that one of the triangular brackets X is spiked to each of the edges of the 2-by-6 V, so the tops are on the same level. Shoulder cross-pieces Y are then spiked to upright V and to brackets X, even with the tops of brackets X. Two-by-two W- is spiked to each side of 2-by-6 V, with the top butting against the under side of shoulder crosspiece Y.
Another bracket X is then spiked to each of the pieces Wy with its top even with the tops of the other brackets. Shoulder blocks Z are cut to fit against brackets X and crosspieces Y. Center member V of the support should project far enough above the bracket, so the first-, second-, and third-story frames will slip over it, and the top floor will rest upon it.
A Concrete Base
Because a martin house must have a height of from 15 to 20 feet above the ground, the base of the support must be made very solid to prevent its blowing over in a heavy wind-storm. The best method is to dig a hole about 30 inches deep, 20 inches wide, and 20 inches long, stand the support in the center and fill in around it with concrete.
Mix up the concrete in the way described for making the mixture for the concrete lawn-roller (Chapter 34).
To Set Up the Martin House, after the support has been erected, wall require two persons. Build a temporary scaffolding around the support, to stand upon, and raise
and set in place one section of the house at a time. Figures 711 to 714 in the Frontispiece to Part 4, opposite page 293, show how the author rigged up a ladder scaffolding for setting up his martin house; also how the sections were assembled.