Martin birdhouse plans – How to make a birdhouse out of wood

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Martin birdhouse plans – Part 1

Martins are very sociable birds, and prefer to nest in colonies. They are not content with one or two compartment houses if larger houses are obtainable. A thirty-room house like that shown in Fig. 702 is none too large. This house has been designed so as to be of the simplest possible construction. The floors and roof are built in sections (Fig. 703), so the house can be erected easily, and so it may be taken apart for cleaning.

Building Material

In building a house of the proportions of the martin house, where there are so many small parts exposed to the weather, it is worth while to buy good lumber. The best wood for the work is cypress, and the best thickness to use is 5/8-inch stuff. Thicker stock will do, but it will make a heavier house, and that means more to lift when erecting it.
The author’s martin house, from which the drawings have been made, measures 24 inches wide, 30 inches long, and 35 inches high.

First, build The First Story Frame out of boards 4 inches wide (A and B, Fig. 703), then the second story frame out of 8-inch boards (C and D, Fig. 703), and then the third story frame out of 8-inch boards (E and F, Fig. 703). Cut boards A, C, and E 29 inches long, and boards B, D, and F 24 inches long.

Fig. 703. — Build the Martin House in Sections as above (For Dimensions of Parts See Text)
Fig. 703. — Build the Martin House in Sections as above (For Dimensions of Parts See Text)

Cut the Doorways before nailing the frames together.

Mark off the positions for the partitions, which must divide the frame into nine compartments of equal size (Fig. 703),and then locate the doorways opposite the centers of the compartments. There will be one round doorway in boards A, and three in boards B, 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Unless you own an expansive-bit which can be set to bore holes 2Ó2 inches in diameter, describe the circles with a pencil-compass, bore several holes inside of each circle, and cut out the wood between the circles, and trim up the edges, with a chisel.

There is one square doorway in boards C and E, and three in boards D and F, of the second and third story frames, each 2 inches wide and 3 inches high. After marking them out with a pencil, bore a hole at each corner, and cut from one hole to another with a small saw. Trim up the edges of the openings with a chisel.

After cutting the doorways, Nail Together the Frame Boards, then cut and fasten the partitions in place in the positions shown in Fig. 703. You can cut two partitions of a length equal to the inside length of the frame (G), and six shorter partitions to fit between them (H); or you can cut two partitions of a length equal to the inside length of the frames, and two of a length equal to the inside width of the frames, and halve them together. They will be halved in the same way that the pigeon-holes of the writing-desk shown in Chapter 8 are put together (Figs. 187 and 188).

Prepare Floor Boards I to fit the first-story frame (Fig. 703), floor boards J to form a 3-inch projection upon all sides of the second-story frame, floor boards K to form a 2-inch projection upon all sides of the third-story frame, and floor boards L to fit the third-story frame.

A hole must be sawed through the exact center of floors I, J, and K to admit the post support V (Fig. 708), which extends through the first, second and third stories. Nail floor boards I,J, and K to the under side of the first, second, and third-story frames. These sections need not be fastened to one another, because the center post support will tie them together when they are slipped over it.

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